Carmenere and Fashion

One of the most exciting things about the wine scene is that it’s never stagnant. If you really love wine you’ll never be bored because there’s always an emerging region, previously obscure grape variety or new vintage available to discover. There’s always something new.

 

For example, while Australian Shiraz was red hot for a few years, now it’s Argentine Malbec’s turn. What caused the shift and what determined the popularity both of these wine categories have enjoyed? First and foremost is the all important quality price relationship: the wines, at one point virtually unknown to consumers, tasted so good in comparison to other more established categories that they eventually achieved fame. In the process each developed an insider’s exotic aura that only increased their appeal. If you found out about Shiraz or Malbec in the early going you had to know a little something about their characteristics to order them. And a major plus: since they hadn’t yet attained status as household names producers couldn’t overcharge so the reputation both developed for great value was justified.

 

Why then is Aussie Shiraz not nearly as popular as it was only a few years ago? Simple agricultural and business reality: grape growers planted a lot more acreage of the variety, brands proliferated, and the same wines that once tasted so concentrated and spicy in a few years time became herbal and diluted. Our recent blind tastings confirm this.

 

Because the wheel always turns though, one of my challenges is to see a bit around the corner to determine what represents particularly value before the whole world discovers it causing the price to rise. Not an exact science but to me Carmenere from Chile represents the next wave, ready to take off, maybe not immediately but somewhere on the horizon. Why? The same factor that propelled Shiraz and Malbec forward: the wines simply taste too delicious relative to their cost. Eventually everyone will catch one.

 

Why Carmenere though and why now? This once undiscovered Bordeaux grape variety transplanted to Chile in the mid-19^th Century and now essentially only grown there, has a direct sensual appeal when its done right, a chocolately berry quality with a signature velvety texture, that I find irresistible. As Chilean vintners have learned to understand the grape (it was only 15 years ago that they realized it was not Merlot and actually should be harvested 4 to 6 weeks later to develop ripe, mature flavors) many of the wines that are coming out now represent stunning value. Carmenere is a temperamental vine that likes a very dry spring and shows best when autumn weather permits a percentage of the grapes in the mix to be raisined, so it requires sunny but not scorchingly hot weather with cool evening that enable ultra late harvesting.

 

Since the best producers have been planting Carmenere in the all the right spots and are now handling it in a customized way that brings out the grape’s beautiful rich black fruit, we are featuring it in our upcoming Chile Focus at most of the restaurants. What you’ll find when you order a glass of the Vina Morande “Terrarum Reserva” 2007 is a great example of what the buzz is about. You’ll encounter a unique wine that has less tannin than Cabernet, but more spice than Merlot and is sure to give Malbec a run for its money. Maybe not this year, maybe not next, but if you’re an adventurous red wine lover come in for a glass (or you can order it in a flight) and judge for yourself. Oh, and it’s only $7.50!

 

Sincerely,

Sandy Block, MW