The Originals and the Rest

There are twelve different countries represented on our wine lists. There’s probably another dozen from which we could source quality wine if we really wanted to confuse everybody. It’s already hard enough to decide though: which grape variety, which region, which country do I want?

 

All of the wines we represent are from the same grape species, Vitis Vinifera, which originated in Asia Minor, spread to Europe and then from there to the rest of the world. The major European wine cultures (France, Italy, Germany and Spain) have been growing these grapes and making wines since Antiquity. There’s a great synergy between the region of origin and the grape that translates itself into a signature style.

 

The major producing countries outside Europe (the US, Australia, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand) use the exact same grapes but achieve very different results. When we do comparative tastings of a particular variety, say Chardonnay, there are often major differences between what we’ll call “the Originals” and the wines from elsewhere in the world. This holds true if we’re talking about Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and virtually all of the other grapes that we carry.

 

How can we summarize the overall differences? The European “Originals” tend to be produced on older, more weathered and varied soils, the grapes ripen in cooler, more marginal climates and the fruit flavors taste a bit less strong. What results is a wine that has understated mineral and earth characteristics, lower alcohol levels, less apparent use of oak, and more of a bite. By contrast, the wines from outside Europe are from more fertile, younger soils, often grown in sunnier less rainy climates; they tend to be fuller in body and riper in flavor with more overt fruit sensations. These generalizations don’t always hold but they’re true enough so that we can target some of our wines for some of our dishes and some with others.

 

Acidity and Alcohol are powerful wine components that govern how much each of us enjoy certain wines and how they interact with various dishes. Cool climate wines will be more acidic and lower in alcohol; warm climate wines the opposite. So if we’re going to generalize, we’d say that “The Originals” will be more crisp and lighter in body than wines from the same grapes grown elsewhere. We’d say that a California Pinot Noir will tend to be more intensely fruity, fuller in body and a bit less tart than a Burgundy from the same grape variety.

 

One way you can experience these differences yourself in dramatic fashion is to take advantage of some of our Tastings Flights where we often compare European and non-European wines. Some of our restaurants currently are featuring the “Terroirs of Chardonnay” Flight where you might get to experience tastes of a Russian River, Oregon and Burgundian Chardonnay side by side and see graphically the stylistic statement each makes. We are also featuring some “Originals” in many of our Massachusetts locations as well as our newest restaurant in Atlanta this April.  Drop in to enjoy one of these selections! Please click here to view.

 

In matching with our various dishes we train our staff to recommend “like with like.” In other words, if a particular course is prepared to show off the fish’s natural, milder flavors, we often recommend one of “The Originals” (a Pouilly-Fume or Sancerre from the Loire Valley, a Chablis or Meursault from Burgundy, a Marsannay or Gevrey-Chambertin from the Cote de Nuits in Burgundy) because there’s going to be less of a clash and the wine will not overpower the dish. If, on the other hand, we are grilling a fish and serving a rich, spicy or fruit-laden sauce, we often recommend a wine from elsewhere (a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, an oak-matured Napa or Sonoma Chardonnay, a Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast or Russian River Valley) because its stronger constitution can stand up to the more assertive flavors. This works pretty well as a rule of thumb.

 

Here are some matches I’ve found particularly successful with dishes on our menu:

   

Lemon Caper Sole and a subtly flavored Meursault, because richer Chardonnays from elsewhere might drown out the subtleties of the delicate fish and the mellow sauce

 

Nutty Atlantic Salmon and a smoky but crisp California Chardonnay (Sonoma Cutrer is ideal) because a lighter intensity white Burgundy would not stand up as well to the toasted almonds and the chewy ravioli

 

Red Onion Jam Swordfish and a bold California Zinfandel because a red wine from France, Spain or even Italy would lose fruit when you tasted it with this dish, whereas the fuller bodied Zin would match the grilling and the jamminess to perfection.

 

Everything Tuna with either a red Burgundy or Pinot from New Zealand or Oregon, because this dish is so adaptable, although if you amp up the spiciness and have more pepper on the dish, I’d go with the juicier fruit of a California Pinot.

 

Grilled Arctic Char with a Lemon Chive Butter and a Sancerre, because a fruitier, tangier New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc might not bring out the understated harmonies of the dish.

 

Enjoy exploring!

 

Sandy Block