Undiscovered Gems

Aligote anyone? How about some Torrontes, Albarino, Nero d’Avola, or Bonarda? Although the vast majority of wines we serve at Legal Sea Foods fall within a select group of well known superstar varietals, lately it seems that some of the more obscure under-the-radar-screen grapes are providing our most exciting tasting experiences. There are some great synergies here: everyone is looking for value today and that is exactly the opportunity unfamiliar wines offer. By definition, what’s popular is often overpriced, what’s unknown isn’t. In addition, we have a new generation of guests who are proving to be less concerned with a wine’s pedigree or reputation, more interested in its flavor or style. Oh, the wine is not “rated” by one of the major consumer publications? Not a problem, but what does it taste like? What’s the story behind it? What food will it complement? Is this something that I’ll tell my friends about? After all, isn’t there a lot more cache in describing something new and unique that you’ve had than in just going the safe route and following the crowd?

 

As we have just introduced new wine lists we find ourselves spotlighting more and more of these hard to find but interesting grape varietals that time may ultimately crown the stars of tomorrow. Early in 2008 our Beverage Team highlighted a small group of lesser known grapes (Chenin Blanc, Gamay and Grenache) that we felt worthy of inclusion and they have since become mainstays of our wine lists. As with these three grapes, our current crop of newcomers are not wines to purchase blindly as the majority of examples are over-cropped, diluted and dull. Our blind tastings have shown us, however, that there are producers who are doing wondrous things by cutting back yields and concentrating their flavors so that their wines deserve an opportunity to become better known. Ultimately it’s you who decide this though. We can be excited about a grape variety, or a dish we put on our menu, but if you try them and after enough time you remain indifferent, we move on to other flavors.  

 

So what are these new additions?

 

Aligote is the “other” white grape of Burgundy, the one nobody talks about. It’s a bit more tangy than Chardonnay, without the same soft texture and full body, but we’re finding that lighter, crisper whites are becoming more popular, especially with raw shellfish. Rather than being fermented or aged in barrels, this light to medium bodied grape is generally fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the yeast, to produce a relatively sharp tasting but also creamy wine that will complement shrimp and scallops as well as oysters or mussels. Particularly good is the Maison Champy, Bourgogne Aligote 2007, a slightly lemony, freshly spicy wine with a touch of vanilla and mineral notes in the lingering finish. 

 

Torrontes is the signature white grape of Argentina, where it produces an ocean of mediocre overcropped wine and a growing number of outstanding wines that are fresh and intriguingly floral. Last month we highlighted Susana Balbo “Crios” Torrontes. Of equal merit is the 2007 Trapiche Torrontes, also from Mendoza: vibrant apple aromas, with green herb and mint, a round soft juicy texture and flavors of pear and honey. Quite impressive for the moderate price!

 

Albarino is Spain’s superstar white, a peach scented fragrant grape originating in Galicia on the country’s Atlantic coast just above the Portuguese border. Also lees aged, the best Albarinos come from Rias Baixas, which is a verdant, windy district that the thick skinned grape is well suited for. The Martin Codax 2007 shows an appealing lime and honey aroma with soft, creamy textures and a lingering zesty, slightly salty finish that suit it to everything from raw shellfish to sole or mahi-mahi.

 

Nero d’Avola, a hearty Sicilian variety, tops the list of wonderful red wines we’re newly featuring. The secret to quality is the same as it is with the white grapes: not producing too much on the same acre of land so that the flavors are concentrated and rich. Particularly outstanding is the 2007 Villa Pozzi, with an aroma of cinnamon, fig and clove. Round and soft, there’s plum jam and coffee flavors, medium to full body but low in tannins. A perfect sipping red, and at less than $7 per glass it’s a real recession buster.

 

Finally, Bonarda is a grape that also hails from Italy, although in the country’s northwest. There is, however, much more of it planted in Argentina where it enjoys the high elevations and brilliant sunshine of plateaus in the Andes. The 2006 La Posta “Estela Armando” single vineyard Bonarda is a ripe, intense, hearty red with a scent of almonds and tobacco. It has a rich, chocolatey, blackberry flavor that will go beautifully with a peppery tuna steak.

 

We’d love your feedback on any and all of these new value additions to our wine lists.

 

Thanks,

Sandy Block, Master of Wine